How one woman's Sri Lankan kitchen is winning hearts in Goa

Insia Lacewalla

Panjim’s culinary scene is having a moment. The city, once known for its classic Goan eateries and quiet cafes, is now dotted with vibrant restaurants that reflect the eclectic, evolving palate of locals and visitors alike.

From nostalgic thalis to inventive cocktails and small plates that draw on cross-border influences, there’s a creative hum in the kitchens of Goa’s capital — and at the heart of it is a restaurant that’s telling a story few others are: that of Sri Lanka.

At The Jaffna Jump, across the iconic , in Campal, Lisa Sadanah is serving more than food. She’s serving memory, migration and the quiet strength of starting over.

Hers is a story that unfolds slowly — like a good curry — and leaves you with warmth, depth, and the unmistakable flavour of home.

At The Jaffna Jump, across the iconic Panjim Gymkhana, in Campal, Lisa Sadanah is serving more than food. She’s serving memory, migration and the quiet strength of starting over.

FROM CALCUTTA TO COLOMBO

Lisa was born in Calcutta, but her earliest and most vivid memories were shaped in Sri Lanka. In 1982, when her father took up a job in Colombo, the family moved to the island nation — just months before the start of the civil war.

“It was a lot for a nine-year-old to process,” she says. “But we stayed. And, that decision shaped my entire life.”

SERENDIPITY: For authentic Sri Lankan cuisine in Goa, head to The Jaffna Jump.

Food was Lisa’s first language of belonging. At school, she devoured malu paṭis (fish patties) and spring rolls from the tuck shop. More importantly, she was often invited home by her friends, where she experienced the real heart of Sri Lankan cuisine: rice and curry, cooked by long-serving domestic cooks with a deep understanding of flavour.

At home, her mother — a skilled, intuitive cook — assigned lunch duties to Lisa and her sister. “We grumbled at first,” she laughs. “But, it slowly became something I loved. The kitchen became my place of quiet focus.”

A NEW BEGINNING

After college in India, Lisa found herself deeply missing the food she had grown up with. That ache for Lankan flavours — mallung, kiri hodi, spicy sambols — never quite left her. Years later, during the Covid-19 pandemic, newly living in Goa with her two children, she returned to the kitchen in earnest.

What started as meals cooked for friends quickly became something bigger. In 2021, Bentota Box was born — named after a beloved seaside town in Sri Lanka.

The project began as weekend home catering, with Lisa preparing, packing, and personally delivering orders that often crossed a hundred a weekend.

TEAM SPIRIT: The people who make The Jaffna Jump what it is.

“I didn’t have a plan,” she admits. “I just cooked what I missed, hoping others might feel the same comfort from it.” Clearly, they did.

The success of Bentota Box led to pop-ups in Mumbai, Alibaug, Surat and Ahmedabad. One of the biggest turning points was a 10-day pop-up at Room in Bandra, where her menu ran alongside the restaurant’s.

“It was intense, but I learned what it really takes to run a professional kitchen,” she remembers.

FROM BENTOTA TO JAFFNA

That experience caught the attention of Kishore, a well-known restaurateur and owner of The Tanjore Tiffin Room, who — with industry veteran Prashant — offered Lisa the opportunity to open a permanent space in Goa.

And so, in June 2023, The Jaffna Jump opened its doors in .

The restaurant’s name references the northern Tamil city of Jaffna, but also symbolises Lisa’s own leap — into the unknown, into entrepreneurship, into ownership of her own story. The space itself is charming, unfussy and welcoming, with old tiled floors and a breezy, tropical sensibility that feels both Goan and Sri Lankan.

The space itself is charming, unfussy and welcoming, with old tiled floors and a breezy, tropical sensibility that feels both Goan and Sri Lankan.

The food? Bold, homespun, and utterly transportive. Standout like Kirihodi, Brinjal Moju and Black Pork Curry are crafted from recipes Lisa has collected and refined over years of learning in Lankan kitchens. “I don’t take holidays,” she smiles. 

“When I go to Sri Lanka, I’m in someone’s kitchen — watching, tasting, scribbling notes, adjusting ratios.”

She makes minor adjustments to the spice levels to suit the Indian palate, but nothing else. “These aren’t fusion or inspired-by versions. They’re as close to the original as I can get, and that matters to me.”

MORE THAN A RESTAURANT

Over time, The Jaffna Jump has become more than just a . It’s a place where conversations happen — about food, yes, but also about history, identity and belonging.

“People come here and talk to me about their own connections to Sri Lanka,” Lisa says. “Some have even booked holidays after eating here. And a few have come back with stories of their travels. That’s the best part.”

She brought something far more valuable: hard-earned wisdom, deep respect for her craft, and a willingness to learn from those around her.

One evening, an Indian army officer who had served in Sri Lanka came in for dinner. “We ended up having the most unexpected, emotional conversation,” she recalls. “can do that — it opens a door that nothing else can.”

A CHAPTER WRITTEN WITH GRATITUDE

Lisa is the first to say she didn’t get here alone. “Kishore and Prashant have guided me from the very beginning. They never let me believe I couldn’t do this. They taught me to ‘own it’ — to find a solution before I bring up a problem.”

Her third pillar of support? “Parth — the ‘Baby Boss’ of the Tamil Sunrise team — is my speed dial. He’s taught me to lead with compassion, to be calm instead of reactive. That mindset shift has changed how I run my , and my life.”

“I would not be where I am with The Jaffna Jump without these three men,” she says, with quiet conviction.

It’s the kind of restaurant you return to — not just for the food, but for the story. And, for the woman at the heart of it, quietly reminding us that it’s never too late to begin again.

STARTING OVER, STRONGER

“I’m turning 53 this year,” she says, “and Jaffna Jump gave me a sense of purpose I didn’t even know I was searching for.”

She didn’t begin with all the knowledge or tools it takes to run a restaurant — no background, no business degree — but she brought something far more valuable: hard-earned wisdom, deep respect for her craft, and a willingness to learn from those around her. 

“I’ve built something real. Something that makes my family and friends proud. And for that, I am deeply grateful.”

In a city where the scene is increasingly defined by slick openings and fleeting trends, The Jaffna Jump feels like an anchor. A place that is grounded, generous, and rich with feeling.

It’s the kind of restaurant you return to — not just for the food, but for the story. And, for the woman at the heart of it, quietly reminding us that it’s never too late to begin again.

DETAILS

WHAT: The Jaffna Jump (Sri Lankan restaurant & bar)

LOCATION: Pinto Arcade, Opp Panjim Gymkhana, , Panjim

WHEN IT’S OPEN: Everyday

TIMINGS: 12 noon to 12 midnight

RESERVATIONS: +91 93075 13221

INSTAGRAM: @jaffnajump